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A British Woman Fascinated

By the Intricacies of Japanese Lacquerwork

Situated in the northern part of the Noto Peninsula in Ishikawa Prefecture, jutting out into the Sea of Japan, Wajima City is renowned for its lacquerware, considered to be one of the leading Japanese traditional crafts. Of all of the lacquer-producing areas in Japan it is the only one that has been designated as an "Intangible Cultural Asset of Japan."

The intricate skills of the Wajima craftsmen produce a broad range of elegant lacquerware pieces. There are as many as 124 steps involved in the production process and the quality of Wajima Lacquerware depends on the skills of its craftsmen, which have been progressively cultivated throughout history.
Fascinated by the intricacies of its beauty and timelessness, Suzanne Ross, originally from England, has lived in Wajima for more than 17 years and has immersed herself in the profound world of Wajima Lacquerware as an independent artist. The Real Japan explores her odyssey.
From London to Wajima
Influenced by her grandmother, a fashion designer, and her mother, a hair designer, Suzanne Ross had no hesitation about her future direction after graduating from high school, determined to study art and design. She came across urushi, the sap of the Japanese urushi tree and the core ingredient that defines Japanese lacquerware.

"My encounter with urushi lacquerware pieces dates back to 1982 while I was an art school student. There was an exhibition focusing on Japanese Art held at the Royal Academy in London. I happened to see an ink-stone case and a folding screen produced in the Edo period and was instantly fascinated by them. It was love at first sight. These works struck a chord in my heart. The lacquered black on the surface, along with the meticulous ornamentation, was so stunning that I felt as if I was being drawn into the infinite universe."

Ross set her mind on going to Japan in search of a lacquerware teacher in spite of the fact that she did not speak a word of Japanese. Not having any knowledge of urushi, she thought that it was just something applied to the surface much like paint, and that it would only take three months at most to master all the techniques. When coming to Japan, however, she was taken aback by the intricacies of the art.

Ross found a job as an English teacher in Nagano Prefecture and traveled from there to various lacquer-producing cities in Japan. Having learned that Wajima was the most famous and representative of all Japanese lacquerware, she decided to head for Wajima.

Ross contacted several lacquer workshops in Wajima directly, only to find that they had no interest in accepting her as an apprentice; some of them even refused to teach women. Luckily, she was able to become a student at Wajima Lacquerware Art Institute, a government-subsidized institution headed by a living national treasure and founded for the purpose of cultivating excellence in craftsmanship so that this master craft can be passed down to future generations. She applied for the institute and was enrolled in the foundation course.

Awaiting her however, was an unexpected development. When she returned to London briefly before entering the institute, she fell in love with a man she had known for a while and postponed her entrance to the institute. Although she valued her relationship with him very much, it was impossible for her to cut off her odyssey with urushi. A year later she put him on the spot by asking him to choose between two options - whether to go with her to Wajima or to split up. Her boyfriend opted for the former. Ross was able to continue her odyssey of Japanese lacquerware, not knowing how long it would take her to master it.

A Struggle against the Establishment
Entrance to the institute was to be the beginning of a long struggle; Ross had two major obstacles to face. One was, of course, the language barrier. The other was the deep-rooted Japanese tradition of the artisan spirit; skills are not things that are taught, but things that should be stolen from masters through careful observation.

"I was trying very hard to become able to understand the art as quickly as I could despite the language barrier. When I asked my teacher why certain things should be done using specific ways, he told me not to ask any questions and instead to steal. To me this was shocking and unacceptable."
Her passion moved some of the teachers, who were kind enough to reply to her questions. For Ross, it didn't make any difference whether he was an ordinary teacher or a living national treasure. In fact, if anything living national treasures were to be more questioned.

Having finished the foundation course, she moved on to the Makie Course, one of the advanced courses. She intended to master both lacquering and decorating techniques as in the future she might have to do both when she returned to England. Makie is one of the techniques for adding ornamental designs to lacquered surfaces.

Her individual manner, which lacked sufficient respect and understanding for Japanese customs placing emphasis on hierarchy and group harmony, once led to an incident. Ross designed a jewelry box for her graduation work. Her carpentry request for the wooden base was turned down by the institute since it would cost too much and no one had made anything like it before.

She took her request over the institute straight to the top of the organization and was able to get the permission she needed, although it was not appropriate to do so. In spite of the ensuing uproar, she managed to stick to her guns and complete her graduation work which is still on display at the institute.

Just as she had finished her five years of studies, her first daughter was born. She spent the subsequent 12 years bringing her up and a second daughter five years later while continuing to work as an artist.
Passion for Urushi
Influenced by her grandmother, a fashion designer, and her mother, a hair designer, Suzanne Ross had no hesitation about her future direction after graduating from high school, Although Ross intends to preserve traditional lacquerware techniques through using the best materials and learning with the master craftsmen, this is not her ultimate goal.
Her work symbolizes deep respect for tradition and innovation that breaks away from the norm. These two characteristics seem to be in perfect harmony in her pieces as can be seen, for example, in a bowl decorated with French lace and a plate decorated with European flowers and plants.

Her love for urushi leads her to make critical comments about the conservative world of Wajima lacquerware. She says,"Wajima Lacquerware artisans should broaden their horizons and learn something from Europe and incorporate some design into the next generation of lacquerware pieces. I don't think people will appreciate lacquerware if you keep churning out the same products. I strongly believe that Japan should introduce urushi abroad. This does not mean that you can produce wine glasses using urushi. If you have any inkling of wine culture, you know that there is no point producing something that you can't see inside. If you want to promote yourself in the world, you should do research on other markets." She wishes to be a bridge between the parochial Japanese craftsmen and Europe which has no urushi expertise.

Ross deplores the fact that many Japanese people regard urushi to be so expensive and that it is too cumbersome to be used on a daily basis. Lacquerware pieces should not only be displayed on a shelf. The more frequently you use them, the more the luster deepens and the more beautiful they become. If you don't use them, they may even crack. As long as you use them properly, they will last for a long time, even 100 years. Considering its quality and lifespan, urushi is not expensive. I would rather my pieces were bought by people who wish to use them."
Her Odyssey Continues
"When I first came to Japan, I thought I would only stay here for three months or six months at most. I have been in Japan for nearly 24 years. That's amazing, isn't it?"

Ross lives in a house beside a river, a 10-minute drive from the centre of Wajima. "When we moved in, this old house had been deserted for seven years and we had no access to water, electricity, gas or telephone. It was so hard to live here at first, but my husband, with the help of some friends, renovated the house and barn as a studio so that we are now able to live comfortably. In Europe it is natural for people to renovate old houses to live in."

Although she has studied lacquering techniques and the decorative Makie techniques and has her own workshop called, "Ross Studios," her learning seems never to end. "Urushi is a complex world. I have spent half of my life working on it. It is so time consuming." When reflecting on her first encounter with urushi in London, her odyssey with urushi really does seem never to end.
Suzanne
Suzanne Ross
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